Some things you just gotta do or try once, which is pretty much my life’s mission when it comes to traveling and eating. So, grabbing an authentic New York hot dog during our recent visit to the big city was on the “must do” side of “The List”. The tough decision was…which one? It would have been easy grab a dirty water dog off one of the thousand or so street carts we passed and call it a done deal. But, that wouldn’t make for much of a story, would it? No, for this, our first visit, it was pretty much an imperative that we visit at least one of the classic places that put New York hot dogs on the map.
So, was it to be the Original Nathan’s Famous dog, now of planet wide fame and distribution? Losing time to a 2 hour round trip subway ride South from mid-town Manhattan to the “Original” location across Surf Ave. from the end of the subway line in Coney Island gave me reason for pause…
…especially when there was Gray’s Papaya, many New Yorkers’ first, last and only choice when it comes to dirty roller dogs, a mere two stops North on the upper West Side of Manhattan. In fact, Gray’s Papaya is on the completely other end of the spectrum from Nathan’s in more ways than just direction. They are down to one surviving location about the same distance from the 3 train at Broadway and 72nd as Nathan’s is from the Q line at the far Southern end of Brooklyn.
Fortunately, I had left some “open” time on our itinerary to give us some leeway to explore. Getting out of Manhattan for a few hours seemed like it might be a welcome respite from the 100 mile an hour pace we had been keeping for the past few days. So, we decided to hit both Nathan’s and Gray’s, and, in doing so, covered a lot of ground, had one of the best pizzas in the universe and rode an empty subway car in New York City. I know, I can hardly believe it myself!
Nathan’s Famous – It’s a no frills dog on a bun. I’m sure I’ve had one before…how could I possibly not? There’s a Nathan’s in every airport and shopping center in the civilized world, isn’t there? But, this one was memorable and damn good. Maybe it was because of the long, lonely subway ride to Coney Island in the offseason. Perhaps, it was the mystique of eating at the original location that’s 100 years old. It could have been the perfect proportion of blackened casing to meat, triggering the Maillard trembles. Then, there’s the gallon sized jugs of the simplest condiments, mustard, ketchup, onion and relish to consider. Have it your way, sir, but please step away from the counter and make it yourself! With a beer, fries and chili on the dog – we’re talking $10 for a nice snack and, yep, I’d do it again!
Gray’s Papaya – Countless TV food stars, chefs and New Yorkers advocate on behalf of Gray’s classic New York hot dog. Personally, I had to eat there ’cause I’ve always been intrigued by the name. Plus, I always wanted to see why papaya is so good on a hot dog.
Gray’s Papaya is pretty simple – a no frills, walk in, order and stand at the 12″ red table rimming the perimeter to eat, type of joint. Ordering was equally simple – the $5.95 recession special was two dogs and a Papaya drink. This I didn’t know – the Papaya drink part. No one ever talks about the drink. So much for eating a dog with papaya on it…
With ordering, waiting and eating, I’m not sure we were in the place for more than 10 minutes total. But, we walked out with a belly full of food, and, frankly, needing some water to wash the taste of the Papaya drink out of our mouths. Now I know why no one ever talks about it – the drink. The dog, though, covered in a sweet and sour, kraut & onion topping, was pretty damn good…for the 4 or 5 bites that it lasted.
Actually, both the Nathan’s and the Gray’s dogs were small, surprisingly so – a throwback to pre-supersize days – maybe the types of dogs you’d serve if you had to serve thousands of them and food costs were a concern. Cut ’em in half and you’d have two small tapas bites. But, all things taken into consideration, the size was exactly what it should have been. The meat to bun/condiment ratio was perfect on both dogs and it didn’t feel like you were investing an hour of your time to order and eat and in need of a full daily workout to support the effort. I’m glad to have them off “The List” for next visit, but I’m gladder that they were on it for this one.
And, about that pizza…you didn’t really think I went all the way to Coney Island for a hot dog and a walk down the empty boardwalk, did you? Totonno’s is named after Mr. Totonno, the original pizzaiolo for the first registered pizzeria in the country – Lombardi’s. Lombardi’s was actually on “The List,” even with the modern reputation they have of being a tourist-centric shadow of their former selves. But, as long as we were headed south, I figured why not eat at the place where the guy who invented the New York pizza perfected it…right?
Was it cool to see that every single pie here was made and cooked by hand, the same hand, that of the third generation, family member, pizzaiolo, with exacting placement and proportions for every ingredient? For sure…
…but, it was amazing to see the same guy that made the food personally deliver it to each table. Back in the day, we used to call that a bunch of different things: taking pride in your work, personal responsibility, care and concern for your customers, good business… Today, it’s like seeing ancient history being re-enacted – and, it’s embarrassingly shocking that it’s so shocking…
And, as we strolled along the near empty boardwalk, enjoying our last few minutes of tranquil, non-hectic digestion time before heading back into the morass of human density, I realized I had never really eaten a hot dog or pizza quite like these. I couldn’t quite put my finger on it. Was it the sauce? Yes. Or the toppings? Yes. Maybe the crust? Yes. Or the seemingly simple, but perfectly balanced and married flavors? Yes.
But, there was something else… Then, bursting through the deafening quiet along the boardwalk, understanding dawned…
It’s the tradition and purity, the classic simplicity, the care and thoughtfulness for each serving and ingredient that has been gifted through generations to modern day stewards who are smart enough not to have changed a single. solitary. thing. And why should they? There’s no improving perfection. Cheers, my friends!
The Foodie Whisperer says
October 9, 2016 at 2:57 pm